
Traditional Korean Meal in Gyeongju
Japan/Korea Trip Part 3: Busan and Gyeongju
Day 9: Saturday May 24 - Ferry to Korea, Gwangalli Beach
Today started out as a travel day. I had to get from Kyoto, Japan to Busan, South Korea. The quickest and easiest and maybe cheapest way would have been to get a short flight, but I decided to be a little more adventurous. I took an express train to Osaka and then transfered to another express train to Fukuoka in the southwest of Japan which is actually on a different island than Tokyo and Kyoto. Along the way, we made a stop in Hiroshima. It was a good day to travel because it was cloudy and rainy today. When we reached Fukuoka, I took a city bus to the Hakata ferry terminal where I boarded a JR Kyushu Beetle ferry headed for the port city of Busan, South Korea where my friend Kyounghae lives. When I boarded the ferry I started getting a little worried about seasickness (and the warning signs about "sea creatures"). I was about to go on a 3-hour ferry ride across the open sea during a storm. What I didn't know was that the ferry uses a jet propulsion system and hydrofoils that actually lift the hull up out of the water so that you're not affected by waves at all. So even during the storm and riding across the open sea, you do not feel the water at all. It feels like you're riding on a train. I went through immigration and got a cab to the Nongshim Hotel, the only high-end hotel of my trip (it was about $450 total for four nights). I was very lucky on the timing of my trip. Coincidentally, the day I arrived in Korea was the last day of work for my friend Kyounghae. So instead of me trying to find my way around Korea on my own, I had my own personal tourguide for the next nine days. To celebrate my arrival and Kyounghae's last day of work, we went out to dinner and then out drinking with some of her coworkers. For dinner, we went to Seomyeon and had jjimdak (a spicy chile, chicken, and noodle dish) with soju (korea vodka). Dinner was very spicy and I started to get worried that all food in Korea was going to be that spicy, but luckily it turned out to be the spiciest thing I ate while I was there. Next we went to Gwangalli Beach, a beach with a strip of bars and cafes where a lot of foreigners hang out. From the beach, you can see a beautiful bridge all lit up at night crossing the bay. And unlike beaches here in the USA, you're allowed to drink outside on the beach which is what most people do there. I had a lot of fun that night (which lasted until about 5am) but it almost didn't end well... there was a lot of alcohol consumed... an incident involving fireworks... and then the police came... I shouldn't put anything else in writing. :)
Day 10: Sunday May 25 - Shopping, Temple, Haeundae Beach
When I woke up, I took a walk around my hotel area. It's not easy to walk around Busan. Most of the streets don't have sidewalks and cars don't yield to pedestrians (even at red lights!). You really need to be careful. Getting around Busan can be a bit of a challenge, but there are subways, buses, and taxis so there's always a way to get where you need to go. The taxis are very cheap and the drivers are honest unlike many countries including my own. Actually everything in Korea is very cheap, especially food. A meal that costs $25 in Japan, costs about $5 in Korea and includes about a dozen side dishes for free. In the afternoon, we went to the Pusan National University area (PNU) which has lots of shopping, restaurants and bars and we had lunch. Then we went to Haedong Yonggungsa, a beautiful Buddist temple on the rocky coast. It was here that I tried my least-favorite Korean food, beondegi (silkworm larvae), which actually smells worse than it looks or tastes. In the evening, we took a stroll along Haeundae Beach and went to a Korean buffet dinner where I got to try many different types of Korean foods. At this point I should mention that I actually had some culture shock on arriving in Korea. I fully expected for the culture shock to happen at the beginning of my trip in Japan, then I expected to get over it, and then expected Korea to be very similar to Japan. I was wrong. I adjusted to Japan quite easily, but the Korean people are very different than the Japanese. To be honest, at first I thought Koreans were extremely rude. It's very common for people to bump into you on the street or the subway and not apologize, or even cut in front of you in line. But after realizing that everyone does these things, I adjusted and got used to it. I actually got strange looks when I bumped into people and apologized for it. The other thing about Korean culture is that most people will completely ignore you if they don't know you, whereas Japanese always seem to give you their full attention. But once a Korean gets to know you, after a meal or a drink, you practically become family and they will do anything for you.
Day 11: Monday May 26 - Gyeongju Tombs, Temples, Street Food
Today we took a bus to the city of Gyeongju, one of the most popular tourists destinations in South Korea and only 45 minutes from Busan. In Gyeongju we visited the Royal Tomb Complex, an area of large grassy mounds where ancient kings are buried. We also saw the 7th century Cheomseongdae, one of the oldest surviving astronomical observatories in East Asia and one of the oldest scientific installations on Earth, and the Seokbinggo, an ancient ice storehouse (the first refrigerator?). Then we went to a traditional korean restaurant where I had my first experience of eating while sitting on the floor. This was one of my favorite meals of the trip. In the afternoon, we had some Gyeongju bread for a snack, a pastry filled with red bean paste. We went to the most famous Hwangnam Bread shop and bought a couple boxes to take home with us. Finally, we visited the Bulguksa Buddist temple before taking the bus back to Busan. In the evening, we walked around the Seomyeon area which has lots of shops and restaurants and street vendors. Tonight I got to try lots of delicious street foods as well as some Korean frozen yogurt at Cafe Iceberry which was much better than any Pinkberry or Red Mango in the USA.
Day 12: Tuesday May 27 - Markets, Live Octopus Lunch, Shopping
In the morning I explored the Bujeon Market, the largest market in the city, and saw all kinds of vegetables, herbs, and fish for sale on the street before visiting the expensive Lotte Department Store. For lunch, I met up with Kyounghae and her mom who drove us to Ilgwang Beach so I could try live octopus, something I had seen on Anthony Bourdain's No Reseverations and really wanted to try. First we went to a market and got an octopus, an eel, and another kind of fish which Kyounghae's mom took to a restaurant and told them how we wanted them prepared. We sat down at the restaurant (on the floor of course), and were given a million side dishes and sauces. They brought out the octopus which was chopped up in pieces, but the pieces were still moving in the dish. The eel was grilled, and the other fish was served raw. This was my favorite meal of my entire trip. The octopus was really fun to eat. The suction cups were still working and sometimes you had to fight with it with chopsticks to get it to let go of the dish. Then you dip it in a salty yellow sauce and put it in your mouth. You can feel it moving still in your mouth and the suction cups sticking to your tongue and cheeks. It was such a bizarre feeling, but I loved it. And it tasted delicious. The eel and raw fish was amazing too, but the experience of eating the live octopus was one of the highlights of my trip and an experience I probably never could have had without Kyounghae and her mom. After lunch, there were a few pieces of octopus left and they were still moving - an hour after it was chopped up! On the way back we stopped at a fish market in Gijang-gun and then went home to Busan. In the afternoon, Kyounghae had to teach for a couple of hours (she's an english teacher), and while she did that I walked around the PNU area and did some shopping. That evening we had dinner with her students (two 15 year-old boys) and then drinks with one of her friends.
Here are my Busan photos.